(PARIS v4r6 was released 19 July 2012 - PARIS v4r6 is now End-of-Life, deprecated 31 July 2013 and is replaced by the PARIS v5 Mega iOSD HERE) - PARIS Sirius™ v4r6 multicopter control board CPU IMU designed around the v2.2 software - flies Quadcopter or Tricopter Hexii and YSiix or Octa by changing the Arduino code inside it; Paris Sirius™ features our classic 72mm round form-factor - intergrating with the 72mm Andromeda LED orientation board - and is the top selling MultiWii board of all time - More than 3000 PARIS have been sold since our v1 board was released in Dec 2010. Features the thickess 2.0mm boards to meet aviation standards and the thickest copper traces of any board to withstand any crash - built tough - Most important is the absolute central position and the mounting of the IMU Gyro and Accelemeter Only PARIS Sirius goes to the extra expense to mount the Sensors on a second daughter board on gel pads - there is a very good reason for this - multicopters have a LOT of vibration and resonances - it is not a mobile cell phone - so mounting gyros/Acc on the mainboard is NEVER an option - Hero features in PARIS v4 r6 are 6 x micro JST connectors, 1 Rc 6 ch input, 2 x LV I2C bus inputs , 2 x HV I2C GPS input , RS232 Bluetooth input , 8 engine pin out controls - 6Ch input from ANY and all Receivers (or SUM if required) - Invensense 3205 gyro - Nothing flies as smooth as a PARIS Sirius™. dont be fooled by MEGA or ARM processor hype claims - analogue motors/props have mass inertia - they are running at 6-9000 rpm and cannot change their speed 800 times a sec - 10 at most - and the ATMEL 328 CPU on PARIS is already running 400hz - thats 400 times a sec. Nothing flies smoother than a PARIS v4r6.
The PARIS forumis here - use to "search this thread" function when you get there, to search for key words - for support on future versions of software released after the deprecation date, please consult the open-source the PARIS dedicated forum HERE
New Features in v4r6 at release
Onboard mini USB - elimates pushpin errors of older FTDi connections - does not require FTdi daughter board - drivers auto-loading in MS Win 7 and Apple OSX 10.6
2 x HV I2C 5 pin Micro JST inputs
2 x LV I2C 4 Pin Micro JST inputs
RS232 Bluetooth connector Micro JST 4 pin
improved layout for sensors - Optimised upper to lower deck 2 sided SMD
MultiWii v2.2 customised code sketch - code is open source - please review in advance - no guarantee is given for open source software - but that said - its VERY good and cutting edge - look at the video HERE to see what other pilot flying our SCARAB airframes and CarbonBird motors did with this software https://www.multiwiicopter.com/pages/videos/
Carried over Features ireleased in the v4 r5
Micro JST I2C 3v3 GPS input ready - &; or HV GPS 5 way connector for 5v GPS (marked HV I2C) - PARIS GPS coming soon -
3 I2C inputs in total - LCD or LEDRing ready - uses port marked GPS if 3v3
6 RC Channel inputs - RC Plus Aux1 & Aux 2 Micro JST - > RC Receiver plugs - 190mm cable - works with any RC Reciever
8 Engine outputs - Tricopter, Quad, Hex, YSix or Octa
software 2.0 Arduino Open source software by AlexinParis - unlimited control and access to the copter setup if you are an Arduino coder - combined with PC/Mac/Android GUI control if you are not a coder
Legacy Features carried over from Paris v4 r3
Split DC 5.0v bus for noise filtering. By splitting the DC bus into two sections noise generated by ESCs and servos is not transferred to the CPU/Sensor bus which is supplied by a dedicated 5v uBEC.
Option to join the bus with a solder pad bridge if required. If you don't want to run a separate uBEC you can simply solder the jumper to run from one or more ESC piggy-back BECs.
On board LCC - no more annoying soldering of 9 wires to attach an LLC. I2C data is now split between the 5v HiV side and the Low 3.3v side. BSS138 Mosfets. 8 new SMD devices on v4.
Improved layout - Almost all the pins have been moved to allow the Gyro and the Acc to be critically located closer to the geometric centre of the board/copter for smoother flying. PINout positions are optimised for 90° degree headers without crossing the mount screws. All vias now tented to allow suface soldering of the CPU.
USA friendly labeling - based on customer feedback we have adopted the USA terminology - i.e. ELEV rather than NICK.
GUI friendly Ops - now works from USB - no need to attach external power to test or change setting in the GUI
Pre-drilled lower side access - 2 holes are now standard to allow wires to pass above/below the board for extra devices.
LED strip lights GND via mosfet. All LEDs are controlled by PIN13 - arming - disarming - trimming - By connecting your LED strip orientation lights - one wire, the positive (+ve) side of your lipo (3S or 4S to the LEDS) and then running the GND (-ve) line from the LEDs to the LED STRIP GND point on the PARIS - you can safely trigger LED strips up to 850ma - warning DO NOT CONNECT 12v positive side of your LiPo to the board at anytime! Only the GND (Earth - negative - black) needs to be connected. BSH114 MOSFET spec. PARIS v4 r3 commenced shipping 19th AUG
In Tricopter and Quad and YSiix or Hex mode can ALSO drive 2 servos on a Gimbal. For Octa 8 Engines - requires a separate PARIS Gimbal Board
No soldering - finished - tested and pre-programmed ! - Works with Tricopter, QuadCopter +, Quadcopter X, Hex, Hex X or Octa - Plug-n-play works with any PPM 5Ch or more RC Receiver, Futaba®, Graupner®, JR®, Spektrum®, FrSky®, Hitec Aurora® - Requires that your Transmitter is first calibrated to output accurate uSec values of 1095/1500/1905 on all 5 Channels - works best with 6 Ch Receiver or SUM Rx to access Aux 3(ch 7) and Aux 4(ch 8)
HEX (FLAT X, FLAT +, or Y6) • with a standard receiver: in this case the 2 last motors are on PIN D5&D6 and the servos are on PIN A0(engine5)/A1(engine 6) • with any standard receiver: in this case, the 2 last motors are on PIN A0/A1 and the Gimbal servos are on PIN A2(pitch)/D12(Roll) (no CAM trig here on Hexii)
HEX, + 2 servos for a GIMBAL mode + 1 servo for CAM TRIG: • with a PPM sum receiver: in this case, the 2 last motors are on PIN D5&D6 and the servos are on PIN A0(engine5)/A1(engine 6) • with any standard receiver: in this case, the 2 last motors are on PIN A0/A1 and the Gimbal servos are on PIN A2(pitch)/D12(Roll) (no CAM trig here on Hexii)
OCTO config (FLAT X, FLAT +, X8): • with or without a standard receiver: on PINs 3,9,10,11,A0,A1,A2,12 - Note there is no gimbal output with Octa - use a separate gimbal controller
Double sided board - layout is such that the ESC lines all run from the back of the board
Full duplicate set of I2C lines and power - LV side/HV side Easy install of IMU or multiple I2C bus sensors like BARO or MAG
2mm FR-4 mil-spec board, aviation grade - we make the toughest boards out there - by far
triple thickness copper 105um for strong solder joints,vibration and crash survival
Includes a 3v3 IC 1117 with 500ma ouput; Max Vcc 6v
Includes EXTERNAL 2K2 pullup SMDs installed (activate by solder pad if req'd) mixed voltage IC2 devices possible
Includes PIN 13 Auto LEVEL trimming high output LED for 1.9 Software thru 330R SMD installed (LED not included for postion and colour of your choice)
72mm diameter board, mass 15.2g
Full thickness 105um annular ring solder pads
8 x standard 45mm (62.5 diagonal) 3mm mounting holes, can be mounted at 0° or 45°, stackable
Minimal copper for RF transparency for adjacent 2.4Ghz Rx's
RS232 FTDI 5v breakout (for USB - adapter not included sold here) or Bluetooth on android phones GUI control
RoHS lead free - GREEN PRODUCT
Designed in Australia and fully flight tested by experienced MultiwiiCopter pilots - in house
Named 'PARIS' in respect to AlexinParis
Manufactured by us from AU. Not available on any other website.
Features of 2.2 code update
ARM - we dont recommend arm by switch - reason - it's a waste of 4 possible switch positions other than off - if you have 2*3 ways switches - use them for other stuff below
ANGLE - this activates the Accelerometer - self leveling mode - (was called LEVEL or ACC before) - its a beginner mode used for hovering - we dont recommend you Fly in this mode - its designed for hovering directly above your position - where it's otherwise difficult to see small attitude changes. Its useful for FPV take off and land IF your experienced - do not use this for your first noob maiden take off as it confuse you - the acc is sensattive to 0.1° tlt and will rev the props on the downhill side like buggery until its gets its 0.1° offset sorted - its a required mode for RTH
HORIZON - this is a cool new mode - when the cyclic stick is near the centre the Acc is activated - but when you want to fly fast forward or even do Acrobatic flips - then its gyros only - love this new mode!
BARO - be sure to cove rthe BARO with black felt - this prevent erroneous barometric pressure waves from speed or wind and also blocks lights entering the BARO - use this mode to hold Altitude - 2.2 is the first open source release of this code to combine AccZ (G readings) with BARO info and provides a 300mm height hold in a well setup scarab
MAG - Compass or heading lock - be sure you have 1500 setup as the RC Tx Rudder - then when the rudder or yaw stick is centred - engage MAG - this will lock the heading. We dont recommend flying around with MAG on - reason - MAG will lock out if bank angle exceeds 20°. Mag is useful for doing towering climbs or desents where you are flat - and trying to shoot facing one direction - be sure to tune your airframe (by engine inclination) so you have zero latent yaw.
HEADFREE - this requires you mount the MAG - away from all magnetic interference - in small aircraft the centre (Sirius) is fine - but in larger craft you will need to use the remote GPS/Mag and situate it well outside any RMI
HEADADJ - allows you to re-align headfree lock position
GPS HOME - very useful - setup MAG/ANGLE and GPS home on the same switch position - BARO also if you prefer - then use this to fly home - will return to the position where it was last armed - does NOT control throttle so be sure to use enough power to fly/hover. Importantly PARIS offers hared control (IMU and Pilot) during the return to home phase - it is NOT fully autonomous - this is a good thing as it allows the pilot to make inputs to avoid obstacles - without having to do a full manual reversion.
GPS HOLD - do not confuse this with auto-hover inertial lock - 2.2software does not combine inertial with GPS - due to the resolution of civilian GPS this gives a variable hover position of 3-10m - PARIS GPS hold requires careful tuning of PIDs and should only be engaged after taking off and establish a hover first - the software limits the functionality unless the PIDs are well tuned - (very very small changes to PIDs from default) - We recommend this for high altitude "parking" where the aircraft can hold ±3-10m radius position if tuned- use in conjunction with BARO.
PARIS™ board v4r5 (Plug-n-Play) with mini USB oboard;
6 way Rx RC leads connector 180mm ;
328 CPU - See our video page shot with this CPU Paris sirius combo - if you think you can do better with another hyped CPU
Sirius™ Navigator IMU with Gyro/Acc/Baro/Mag 3205/180/085/5883L ;
All pins are 90° degree right angle - as shown in the photos on this page ;
Preflashed Sketch Software optimised - installed tested and calibrated version 2.2
Excludes GPS training and consulting services - any consumer can put a GPS in a car - but piloting an aircraft by a coupled GPS is totally different responsibility - GPS requires that the buyer fully understands GPS navigation limitations - a GPS pod is a sophisticated Navigation/Auto-pilot aid to assist a skilled and educated pilot flying LOS Ops. but only if he/she understands it first - Mis-understanding GPS will cause you to 1) loose, crash or damage your aircraft - thats your problem - on forums you read about GPS fly-aways - these are specifically idiots who caused their own woes by mis-adventure and ignorance - or worse 2) possibly injure yourself or somebody else - so if you dont understand Failsafe setup - if you dont understand manual reversion - then dont buy a GPS equiped multicopter - period - GPS is not not Merlins magic answer to people who cannot fly manually - in short if you need GPS explained to you - then it is NOT something for you. If your a beginner/noob - forget GPS - get a small Quad and learn to to fly it manually first.
Excludes i2C GPS and GPs code - these will be included in the I2C GPS itself - GPS is not activated in software as this produces I2C errors if not connected - to upgrade and to add peripheral devices you need new code - its free Open source software - To fit a second Mag requires to Sirius mag to be isolated - by dremel tool
Excludes noob Arduino coders software support and training - Uses Open source MultiWii software here or learn the code and write your own if you have the skill to do so. We assume no responsiblity for the function of the source code. Buyers should satisfy themselves of the fuctions of the software - The software is on-going - development will continue after you purchased the PARIS Sirius - and new functions not yet know will be available - but may require a working knowlege of Arduio code commenting to use effectively or upgrade - its pretty easy - but we don't offer training in the hardware price above.
Excludes any reliance on Auto-pilot modes - You must learn to fly on ACRO mode and assume responsibility for full manual by skill in 100% manual control as the pilot - no guarantee of auto-pilot of automated level mode, nor auto position holding nor auto-navigation is implied for the control of the aircraft. Pilot must navigate by visual line of sight. Pilot must hover by his skill in manual mode (ACRO)
Excludes RC support for beginners who dont know anything about RC or Radio setup basics - excludes Radio setup training - talk to Futaba - JR - Spektrum etc
Excludes a 101 course in aviation and electronics and coding - Multicopters are extremely technical - if you're impatient - or arrogant - if you dont have time to learn and read - if you're un-educated or if considered plain stupid by your boss and have no friends because you're painfull to be around - then go play rugby - dont try to fly multicopters and dont buy a PARIS Sirius CPU IMU.
Excludes PC support - excludes how to use a PC, how to click on buttons or how to search a website using the search box and keywords.
Excludes support for associated items we dont sell - this means if somebody else sold you something - we dont support that product, and will not train use to use that product to intergate with the PARIS Sirius™.
NOTE: Never connect or disconnect ESC or SERVO pins while PARIS is powered up & Live or while ESC are live !! - if you reverse connect or connect pin high you can permanently damage the PARIS CPU outputs - always connect all servos/ESC with power off - only connect 5v to the PARIS last - and be sure NOT to reverse the polarity. Make sure your uBEC can provide sufficient amps for the Gimbal servos.
Multiwiicopter software - see above DOWNLOADS -See ABOVE - We sell the hardware Plug-n-play - this means no soldering - It DOES NOT MEAN PLUG & FLY- You first need to calibrate your Transmitterand set it up - You will need to set the ESC learning values - You will need to install and operate the GUI - We are not responsibile for your PC skills - or lack of PC skills - We are not responsible for the software functionality meeting your level of expectation - Go to the Video page where every video is made by Pro Pilot who use Scarab Airframes - and PARIS Sirius™ IMU CPU - their results reflect a combination of their skill, knowlege and our PARIs Scarab hardware they choose to fly. If you dont understand the importance of the software function and your required inter-action with Arduino software and the GUI then please DONT buy this product - The software is written by skilled but un-paid coders who have our highest respect :) because its very good - cutting edge. Bear in mind the software is written by a team of contributors and combined/edited by AlexinParis in FRANCE. - Read the RCGroups thread to get the latest minute by minute developments and bug reports. Search a forum thread by using the search this thread - box - to short list what your looking for. Product Support is limited to the documentation here - and the forums themselves. 95% of the the way your copter flies depends on your powers of observation - not assumption - and importantly your DIY project skills - PARIS EXCLUDES Arduino SOFTWARE SUPPORT.
Tricopter Plus+ one = right yaw stick will rotate the servo clockwise
Tricopter Minus- one = right yaw stick will rotate the servo counter clockwise (SCARAB Tricopter kit is Minus 1)
Your board comes preloaded with v2.2 - pre-tested by the BOSS and pre-calibrated before it leaves us - if you alter the code you are taking 100% responsibility for the control of the board at that point - many of the default setting will overwrite the PARIS code - including:
the Failsafe (I disable this and use the Tx failsafe) ; and
the motorstop functions ( I use this function with Tx throttle trim) ; and
the servo travel (I use 1100/1500/1900) ; and
the gimbal settings - so please - make sure you know what you are doing first! Props-off
Supply voltage is 5v-6v maximum - this power is supplied by USB-5v or from the ESC 5v BEC or both.
NEVER attach 12v power or 16v power to any part of the board.
To power up PARIS when connecting to a PC or Mac
remove the props • First connect the usb - then connect the LiPo • beeping will stop - then start the GUI
Click on the USB comm port - (Mac or PC is different (Mac is 7 digit PC is Comm5 or Comm6 etc))
Wait 5 sec - click start - wait 5 sec - now you will see the PARIS comms rs232 LEDs red/green flashing rapid - this means comms are good send/receive
Use Nylon screws to mount PARIS. Metal screws and post will effect sensors especially magnetic based devices. This product is an electronic component board (naked) which requires modest soldering skills to connect to other components (not included). The Arduino Pro Mini 328 CPU (included), with which this board is intended to be used, requires some familiarity with the Arduino Software package in order to load the MultiWiiCopter Arduino sketch for PARIS v4r6. Please see the Getting Started page for more information on the skills & know-how required to make use of the MultiWiiCopter adapter board. Arduino v22 Works with Windows and OSX.
The Gyro and the Acc can be calibrated in the GUi by pressing CALIBRATE - The MAG needs to be rotated one turn on X,Y & Z axis within 30secs of pressing Cailib_MAG
Setup mainly involves the accurate checking or adjusting of your RC Tx - called Transmitter calibration ! DO NOT SKIP THIS first STEP above photo - the very first thing you must do for your first MultiWiicopter.com PARIS v4r6 board is Calibrate your Transmitter to give accurate PWM output range - every transmitter is slightly different - Create a new model memory on the Tx and Call it PARIS. Make sure your PC/Mac has JAVA loaded enabled - The GUI runs on JAVA - do a cold restart after installing Java - connect the Receiver (Rx) to the PARIS, connect the PARIS to your FTDI-USB - this supplies 5v power (after installing the FTDI drivers - HERE - cold restart) and turn on your Transmitter (Tx) and set ACRO(airplane) & PPM(not PCM). If your not sure leave your Radio on factory settings. 99% of RC radios output PPM and work with PARIS out of the box. Do NOT connect anything else yet (like ESC) to the PARIS ! - then Launch the matching 2.2->2.2 Configor 2.2->2.2 Application/program on your PC or Mac or the latest code 2.2and whilst looking at your PC screen - you will see that changes made on the Tx are sent to the PARIS via your Rx - and actual critical uSEC readings - 1095/1500mid/1905 can be set. If you cannot get it exact then use 1090/1500/1910. PARIS is a digital interface and the software running invisibly inside requires very specific digital PWM uSEC numbers to hover 100% auto-level, arm, disarm etc. So this may seem a bit weird but you will be using/pressing buttons on your Tx whilst your eyes are looking at your PC or Mac. So move all sticks to the centre - set all Tx trims to neutral - Now use SUB TRIM MENU on your Tx to set all mid points to 1500 on these blue bars. Then move, one at a time,move each stick to the low position and set 1095; then move each stick/switch to the high position and set 1905. Then go back and check all your midpoints are still 1500 Do this for all sticks and switches.
Orientation - the light blue bars (above) MUST move in the same direction as the stick you are moving - If they do not then REVERSE that Ch in your Tx. So if you move the throttle stick up - then the blue Throttle bar should move up. If you move your rudder right then the YAW bar should move right.
For Multwii code 2.2 or later (New Multiwii Code 2.2use 1.0.5 Arduino HERE - make sure you use GUI 2.2 to match it - clear the eeprom and make sure you recalibrate the ACC and MAG after any version changes - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs)
• Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures - realise that for a noob skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static - PROPS may start at anytime without warning.Never install props prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make sure your actions and your Copter is safe. Never ASSUME the props will not start -removing the props removes the risk.
Set Mode 2 (Throttle on left) Mode 2 mimics a real helicopter where the pilot operates
the 'Collective/Pwr' with his left hand - and the 'cyclic stick' with his right.
Set your Tx to ACRO (basic Airplane) mode - set PPM (not PCM), Activate Ch5 (Gear-Mode)
Read your Tx/Rx product manuals - You as the Pilot are responsible for safety.
Motor conections and rotation directions - The engine numbers relate to the small white text (called silk) printed on the top side of the PARIS next to the pins for the ESC - to reverse the direction of a motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor wires over.
Using the Tx sticks to operate the PARIS
Set the Throttle to OFF - After connecting the LiPo - The ESCs will beep to indicate they are powered but not armed -ESC's cannot arm on power-up with PARIS Wii boards. The embedded PARIS software prevents this and requires you arm with a stick combination below The red LED comes on (steady) on the CPU board showing the board has power. After connecting the LiPo (or USB) the green CPU LED will flash for 5 secs then go OUT If the LED blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking - then the Rx is not powered by 5v (an Rx cannot get sufficient PWR from some USB! It must be powered by 5v from at least one BEC).If the green LED still blinks green (fast) but won't stop blinking -then the Rx is not connected to the correct PARIS/warthox THRO pin correctly. The ESCs cannot calibrate as a multi-engine-group because the default state of the CPU->ESC is Dis-armed for all engines. You need to calibrate ESC throttle-learning range as a separate exercise -below
If the ESC's beep-non-stop then they are not connected to the PARIS board ESC pins or the Rx is incorrectly connected or the Rx/PARIS sees you do not have your throttle to zero.
If your copter goes out of radio-range it may cause harm - if still powered - Take the precaution to program in the FAILSAFE condition to protect people/property. Do not skip this step.
Bind your failsafe (Read your Radio manual - FAILSAFE) on the Tx with power/Throttle set to OFF - Power off failsafe condition. You might decide to set the failsafe power to 1/3 throttle so the aircraft descends in a controlled descent - recommended if understood - For Example on FrSky - set sticks as above (or THRO to 1/3) - then Press the Rx button - 2 green flashes on the Rx itself - done. Failsafe can also be set in Software (NOT recommended - Use only for ultra basic or legacy Tx's like turnigy 9x - if your Tx has failsafe Like all JR/Futaba/FrSky- use hardware failsafe in the Rx). When you turn your Tx OFF in a test the Failsafe - should return the Copter to level and min-throttle -
NOTE : If you use a 33%-40% power (controlled descent setting) be aware that if you switch your radio off while the PARIS armed - then you will initiate a 1/3 powered condition!
You must understand this concept fully and realise the word failsafe - does not mean you can be an idiot yahoo - sorry - you still need to understand the consequences of your chosen "failsafe" condition - and You will be deciding what YOUR Radio "pre-set" will do when it cannot receive a signal. You are still the Pilot in command - YOU are responsible to decide how you will handle failsafe above.
Arming - Learn to recognise that your multiWiiCopter is ARMED. Hold right Yaw (or right cyclic) for 1 sec - you will see the Green LED come on - stays on SOLID
If LED does not come on GREEN - then increase YAW travel on the Tx (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - or Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake (Futaba) - USE THE PC GUI it will reveal your actual numbers - if your stuck out in the field with no PC - then trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim. If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below - install JAVA) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below 1100 (normal THRO range is 1100-1900) - In order to arm - the Wii CPU is looking for THRO and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't apparently arm.
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the Copter ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut fingers and eyes - permanent injuries!! so With THRO OFF ; Hold the YAW stick LEFt for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
Gyro Calibration - Disarm the copter (see above) ; Place the Copter on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static - Check all Tx Trims = neutral - Stand back - With THRO off, Hold the YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ; release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Gyro is now calibrated for gyro drift (at this ambient temperature) - Note : The Gyro on a PARIS board now auto-calibrates in first 4 secs after Powering up - in the outside air temps where you fly. However the Acc does not - see below. It still pays to know how to do a gyro Cal - and if you get any strange drifting behaviour - always do a Gyro Cal and an ACC Cal(below)
Accelerometer (Acc) Calibration - The PARIS is calibrated before shipping, at 25°C - However if you Ops are at a different temp a temp bias can be introduced need a re-cal, so for your Ops temp set the Copter level 0.00° - Press CALIB_ACC - (after first Flying the Copter in ACRO mode - Trim out any YAW using motor tilt (3-5°) - Dont use Tx trim - all Tx trims must be 0) - - Land - Switch over the HORIZON or ANGLE mode - hover STILL air (no wind) - if the copter is drifting by more the 2° tilt the calibration is effected by temp and you need to do a field Acc Cal -> land - -
Disarm the copter (see above) ; ensure the Copter is on a perfectly LEVEL LZ - it must be completely static -
Confirm the DISARMED LED is OFF - Hold Full THRO/YAW LEFT and the Cyclic stick Back for 1 Sec ;
release - you will see the GREEN LED blinking fast for a few secs then go out - The Acc is now calibrated for LEVEL mode (at this ambient temperature) - The ACC on a PARIS/warthox board is the Nunchuk®.
Accelerometer (Acc) 2° Trimming - Also called auto-LEVEL trimming - FIRST do after the GYRO & ACC calibrations and normal ACRO trimming (see above). LAND.
Switch over to LEVEL mode (Gear Switch).
Take off and mentally note the way the copter wants to drift - DO NOTTRIM THE TX
- Land - The final ACC trimming procedure (below) is this -DISARM (see above - the Green LED will go OFF) Move the THRO to the 'Learn Position - full up) - in this example the copter was moving back and right - so ; using stick-banging - move the cyclic (right stick) up once (led blinks) - then left once (led blinks) - these alterations are saved to the CPU memory. ARM again - hover and repeat the process until the copter hovers 'level'. Each Stick-bang = 0.1°
TRI.Copter Arming - Because TriCopters are fitted with a YAW servo they have a special (alternate) arming procedure in >1.7 MultiWii software. Learn to recognise that your Wii TriCopter is ARMED. SET THRO to Zero - off - Hold Cyclic-rightfor 1 sec - you will see the Green LED come on - stays on If LED does not come on GREEN - then increase ELEV/AILER travel (see Transmitter Calibration procedure - above top) - Check the THRO is not actually reversed by mistake - and trim down a few clicks on the THRO trim If it still won't arm connect FTDI and use the JAVA-Config (see below) to make sure the Throttle PWM is below CPU is looking for THRO and is a valuable guide to trouble-shoot a CPU which won't arm. TRI.Copter
Disarming - Learn to DISARM the ESC's before touching or approaching the TriCopter
ESC's/Motors can start suddenly and the props can cut - fingers and eyes - permanent injuries With THRO OFF ; Hold the cyclic stick LEFT for 1 sec ; then the CPU GREEN LED will go OUT and stay out
MultiWiiCopters are nearly twice as efficient as a RC Helicopter providing the props are not placed too close together. Make sure to leave at least 1 rotor/propdiameter between the tips of the props.
Select props with a low pitch such as 10x4.5 and wide span to give a large amount of slow moving downwash. In the hover the throttle should be 1/3 to 1/2 maximum.
Use a magnetic-balancer to balance all props statically in 2 dimensions - absolute balance is essential for AP Ops ; then run them individually to check they are centred true and the tipshave the same path ; any vibration will reduce the effectiveness of the Wii gyro or anyother gyro.
Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures - realise that for a noob skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static - PROPS may start at anytime without warning. Never install props prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make sure your actions and your Copter is safe.
Always maiden on default PIDs' - If the copter is not almost perfect on default PID's then DO NOT go straight to altering the PID's! MultiwiiCopters require good quality ESCs such as HobbyWing® or CarbonBird® (Not SuperSimple) then do full calibrations of all the ESCs, the correct timing set/programmed into the ESCs and lastly good quality wiring and soldering (not 3.5mm press fit connectors) - Use FLUX PASTE to complete all soldered wires.
The Arduino connection
Plug-n-Play PARIS boards come pre-tested - pre-configured - DO NOT reload code - chances are you have a Firmware to PC-java-driver GUI issue!
Here follows an intro to PARIS v4r6 code commenting by MultiWiiCopter customer "Deet" - thanks Deet
MultiWiiCopters fly on Arduino® software.
If your getting squirrelly behaviour after updating code - and it seems very unusual to you as an experienced flyer - (like an alien flying your copter not you ) - it possible the eeprom is corrupted - so just clear it out - clearing the eeprom - note down your old PIDS or do a screen capture of them - Fire up Arduino 1.0 to load MultiWii 2.2
then relaod the fully commented out PARIS specific 2.2 code for the configuration you have ie Quad X ; Futaba SUM Rx ; Pins A0 & A1 ; Pin 8 ; Motor Stop at arm ; etc.....
Effective 11March2013 - we recommend to move up to 2.2
The GUI & the Conf JAVA files for the latest MultiWii versions (Jan 2013) Multiwii Code 2.2use 1.0 Arduino HERE - make sure you use GUI 2.2 to match the firmware (so also v2.2) - clear the eeprom if you get any weirdness and make sure you recalibrate the ACC and MAG after any version changes) - For PC the 64bit version of GUI Java has a bug - please use the 32Bit version of GUI for 32bit and for 64bit PCs. The Mac version works with all known version of OSX including the latest OSX updates for 32bit or 64bit Macs.
Unzip the download and you get 2 folders - the Arduino Sketch files are in MultiWii_2_x Folder - dont relaod RAW sketch files into a PARIS - they will not work - a sketch file must be comment first to activate sensors and other important code features. The other folder MultiWiiConf_2_x contains the JAVA program/App - this is the GUI - The Conf is a JAVA Application which allows you to control lots of parameters on your PARIS and see feedback on-screen - If it does not run ; then update your JAVA.
Both/either the Arduino App (to load new version of firmware) and;or the JAVA-configGUI App are required to interact/tune the PIDs on a PARIS.
Apply 5v power for PC/PARIS-WiiBoard CPU/software - limited 5v comes from the USB cable from the PC/Mac via an FTDI connector(built-in to v4r6) and this is all that is need for a PARIS board and Rx during initial setup (PARIS & Rx not connected to the 4 ESCs yet). However 5v power from USB is limited (amp output on USB 5v by your PC is limited) - and once all your ESC speed controllers are connected to the PARIS - then you also need the main LiPo cell connected & props off (this will activate the 5v power BECs in each ESC) to make changes to a finished and flight ready PARIS and Scarab multicopter. Common noob mistake is to connect all ESC and then not connect the main aircraft LiPo.
MODIFYING or LEARNING to Code - Sketches
1) Connect the 5v to the PARIS via USB (or on older PARIS any 3pin ESC pin (do not reverse the pin or you will damage the PARIS) ;
DownLoad the FTDI Drivers HERE ; restart PC/Mac ; connect your USB plug to the USB/FTDI on your PARIS (disconnect any Bluetooth for code loading)
ParisUSB & PARISBluetooth CANNOT be used concurrently! Its either one or the other on the RS232 port!
3) Set the Tools->Serial Port->Com8 PC create artificial comm port No's - this takes a minute before the comm port appears (for Mac (providing you have installed the ftdi drivers (above) it will be instant - something like /dev/tty.usbserial-A8004Yt1 (7 digit alpha numeric) - if you see several listed pick the bottom one that has USB) - this selects the USB port you have the PARIS/warthox plugged in
4) Set the Tools->Board->Arduino Duemilanove ATmega328
importantly - see red outline above - shows correct board and a 7 digitiUSB port (mac) - PC will show Comm5
6) Now in Arduino - you will see the raw code(sketch) written in Arduino code. (this code is pre-commented for PARIS) - Important - Black items are active - Grey items are not active - Go to Config.h TAB
7) for example delete the // infront of a line to activate it - so - to #define MINTHROTTLE 1180 for your Quad
(already done if I have sent you the code) delete the // infront of this line (only do this to one of the MINTHROTTLES)
8) Defined Copter type - such as # define QuadX ; or #define TRI - if you want to define QUAD-X change to #define QUADX (you have to deleted the // - this is called commenting it into code) - comment out the type that was there before //#define TRI
9) Define Yaw direction (for Tricopters) #define YAW_DIRECTION 1 you can change this to the next line -1 t reverse it #define YAW_DIRECTION -1. Most types use +1 - but the exception is Triikopta which uses minus -1
10) To upload the new code (It wil overwrite everthing that was on the board before) File->Upload to I/O Board ; In the blue at the bottom you will see Uploading to I/O board ; after about 35secs it will say Done Uploading in the blue bar at the bottom
Gimbal - connect the gimbal servos to Cm1 (gimbal pitch) and Cm2(gimbal roll) - If you need to trigger a camera manually by pressing a button/servo - then connect this servo to Trg to activate the camera slave for a Gimbal mount on a Quad or Tricopter. Then alter the values for TILT_PITCH_PROP and TILTROLL_PROP until your gimbal remain level - reverse the servo by using minus (ie -10) - the default values of 10 needs to be changed to 22 for a Scarab Gimbal.
11) MOTOR STOP at Arm - I personally don't use motors-spinning-at-arm - It does not protect you from accidently dis-arming your copter in mid-air! So I first define MOTOR_STOP
Then after arming - the motors may twitch - but motors will NOT spin up. :) Then - most importantly - I trim up on the Tx Throttle 5-6 clicks so all the props are turning at the MIN speed I require for an emergency decent - Then I fly. Inthis trimmed up condition it is impossible for me to accidentally disarm in flight even if I use full yaw in a full descent. The second major advantage of trim-up on the Tx is activating the stability system in a full-rate descent. That's my preference and each pilot must set his own FAILSAFE (see above) and set his own safety features ; The Captain of the aircraft (You) is responsible for his own training, the way he flies and his set-up in terms of risk management.
12) In Arduino always SAVE your code before you upload - to make chages to your PARIS MultiWiicopter CPU - press UPLOAD in Arduino (see point 10) above) - it will do a complie check then upload. Errors are either code complie rrors - or FTDI comms errors - wrong Arduino type selected or PC/Mac issues.
13) Quit Arduino 1.0 software (two applications cannot share the serial RS232 connection)
The GUI - a JAVA Application
if you have GUI problems - assume you have a GUI mis-match to firmware issue - do not immediate load raw code and stuff up a perfect plug-n-play board
Refer Picture ABOVE - Note be sure to Quit Arduino® software before trying to run the GUI (two applications cannot share the ftdi -connection) - Do not reload default code! Stay calm. Your pnp PARIS has already been tested and calibrated. Open (or search for) the java App called MultiWiiConf2_1.app (PC apps end in .exe) Start this application (program) a1) After pressing the COM link - wait 2 secs - then press Start a2 -> then wait 2 secs -> wait 4 secs - (if you click these buttons without waiting 2 secs you can erase your eeprom and all the values will read ZEROS) press READ a3 ; Your GUI is now connect live to your PARIS - again - don’t rush the clicks or you may wipe the eeprom. Make a note of all your values before you change them (Screen Capture/Print Screen) - just incase you have to go back to them (general rule is never change more than one thing at a time) It should look like the values from my screen capture above b4 - Transmitter Calibration - covered on Pg 1 - connect your Tx - Rx and USB-> You will now importantly see the values for low stick / mid stick / high stick VERY IMPORTANT - using your Tx - alter the travel (futaba call these end points) to first get 1500 for mid stick ; then 1095 for low stick ; then 1905 for high stick - then - ESC THROTTLE LEARNING - NOW go back and do the ESC calibration one by one for THORTTLE-LEARNING (an ESC function - nothing to do with Multiwiisoftware) b5 - check the values in this area are all even (the same) at low throttle settings - if not then make sure - again - that you are in ACRO mode and the mid stick is at 1500 - see b4c6 - Click and hold the boxes to change them - then press write c7. If you got a PNP board D8 & D9 are already done for you. with the PARIS ACC perfectly level and still press calib_acc d8 - then wait 4 secs - then press Calibrate_MAG d9 - the LED blinks rapidly - you have 30secs to rotate the board (or better still the entire Quad with LiPo) 360° degress in all axis X, Y and Z - when the LED stops blinking it will save all the MAG tilt errors to eprom. The actual heading shown is effected by magnetic forces - metal objects - EMI
If your Copter is not flying stable or close to stable on default PIDs, as shown above e10 then do not alter the PIDs like a madman - The electronics/software will not save you from un-balanced props - or a bad combination of PROPS/ESC/MotorWindings. Light weight props and Medium/high timing are required. Balance your props on a magnetic balancer until they run silky smooth...then balance them one at a time on a hand-rig for dynamic balance. With a motor on a boom run each one atdifferent RPM to check the running (dynamic ) balance of that prop - use electrical tpe to balance them ---- to change values in e10 - click-hold-drag ; then press write.
e10 - So what are PIDS on a PARIS board - these relate mainly to the size and weight of the Multicopter - its disc loading ; rigidity of the props - soft flexible props need higher P and very rigid stiff props need lower P P =Proportional ; I = Integral ; D = Derivative - Start with P. NB:Never change more than one value at a time - make small changes = 5-10% - then fly - then change it again then fly - make small changes - sometimes a change of 0.1 will make the difference between too soft feeling poor control ; and at the other extrem rapid oscillations and good stability. Main work flow of tunings is start in ACRO mode - level PIDS on defaults as supplied - process is - fly/hover briefly in the hover -> Rapid Oscillations = P is too high (especially roll) ; or wallowing - swaying around with a feeling of RC disconnection requiring large stick movements = P value is too low. Make a note of all your values before you change them - then change P by 0.1->0.3 steps and fly. After hover tuning you can do fast forward flight check - sometime in fast flight you need to back doown the P value by another 0.2 Remember - before you start - do this [Screen Capture/Print Screen] - just incase you have to go back to defaults (general rule is never change more than one thing at a time) It should look like the values from my screen capture below. For a full explaination of PIDs we recommendBajgik's guide here
If you see a problem - this is called an indicator - dont ignore it - so if all your props do NOT start together - turning at the same moment - dont go to the next step - PID tuning is done after the previous mile-stone steps are completed correctly.
The Sirius® Navigator uses the ITG3200 gyro/BMA180 ACC/BMP085Baro and 5883L MAG (- Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs )
first active the Sirius - see below - comment it into the code
Tune the LP filter in the Arduino software for the 3200 gyro - the default 256Hz low pass filter will work for smaller high speed Multicopters but if you are running slower RPMs and 2 bladed props you may need to move to a lower LP frequency to filter out any random twitching. Alter it down in steps. the screenshot animation -below - shows selecting the 42Hz fLP filter - then fly - don't go lower than you need to remove the random twitch. If you cannot remove the twitch no matter what LP filter filter then either change your props/motors/esc or fit an original Nintendo® Wii MP+ IDG600 gyro and de-activate the 3200 from the code
NOTE: Because the ITG3200 is so sensitive you MUST balance all props, balance all engines and check all shafts and collets are running true. dont add extra foam! this cause resonance - Dont use hot melt glue!
Theoretically a faster I2C bus rate is better - but I find that in real life flight tests there is not advantage to 400khz over 100khz - realistically the motors and props have inertia and the faster data flow is irrelevant at the props cannot change speed anything like this by physical limitations of inertia. If you get a placebo effect from 400khz - cool.
For the Sirius 600
you need to do one more thing
1. Comment out the ITG3200 in the def.h panel - so add two // - This effectively activates the IDG600 MP+ gyro
Thats it ! Your PC/Mac - and You - and your Copter are now in RC heaven.
MultiWii GUI - More control and more data for the PILOT
After commenting (writing changes - see above) to your Arduino code and uploading it to your board (see above - already done in the Plug-n-Play versions) Launch the JAVA GUI App -
Press the PORT COM link COM8 -> (wait 5 secs) then START - (then wait 4 secs)Then READ - Then CALIBRATE - You will se this.
Changing the Yaw rate to 0.3 increases the turn speed
Changing the check boxes allows combinations from a single switch such as Baro - click in the upper left side of a grey box to change its state - press WRITE
There are no secret magic PIDs !!!! really - truely - each copter has to be tuned - If your Multiwiicopter does not fly well on default PIDs (below for a v4r6 and also for an AIR) that we install on all PNP PARIS - then your copter requires "tuning" - TEST ALL PIDS using the MultiWiicopter.com hand-held Hand-Maiden technique first - take Safety Precautions - were protective gear and safety glasses !
Factors effecting PIDS
Type of Props - rigid or soft
Length of booms used - shorter booms = lower P
The value of the LPF filter used in the autopilot software
The type of sensors - The 3200 gyro is TOTALLY different to the 6050 gyro/acc
The elevation - sea level vs high mountains
The payload - different prop/disc loading needs different pids
The size and weight of the motors (only a factor if you DIY your motor type)
The presence of unbalanced props or motors plays havok with PIDS
The use of advanced "modes" - usually by noobs - You must turn off ALL mode switches to set your initial DATUM PIDS up - then do the LEVEL PIDS in a separate flight
Your PIDS - "P" values are too high = You observe a ever-increasing RAPID fluction (wing rocking) motion - a whah-whah-whah-whah sound is heard - lower the "P" for that axis
Your PIDS - "P" values are too low = You observe a sluggish response to control inputs or a slow dis-connected un-resposive feeling between controls aircraft - Increase your pids "P" value slowly - in small steps.
To Heavy = You have a brick over weight aircraft full of gear - your DIY (or other TBSDJI Brand) flies for less than 8 mins then it's overweight - get rid of weight!
You copied all the forum trolls and installed carbonProps - Both the type of prop (rigidity) or the loading of the prop are variables - stiff props require much lower "P" - soft triples use a higher "P" and produce smoother flight for video
You mis-matched the props/motors and ESC in a DIY build? Solution - buy a Scarab Kit with everything matched.
You did not calibrate your ESC to the PARIS/ESCs - so the range of 1100-1900 is not learnt equally by all ESCs - their "learning mode" needs to be syncronised
You did not set your minThrottle high enough - 1190 min - this is less of a problem on newer code - but if the idle speed is too low the props can "bog"
You did not balance your props Statically - vibration causes bad IMU data
You did not balance your props Dynamically (running - turning) - at high RPM - vibration causes bad IMU data
You did not balance your motors - motrs dont come balanced - some are balanced - some require copper tape - check yours before installing props - run them and check them
You were fooled into buyng a box-section TBS or plastc lattice dji aerodynamic disaster airframe - SCARABS uses slender circular booms for a VERY good reason based on aerodynamic drag and turbulence - so if you have a Scarab you wont have these problems.
Question - What is the meaning of the LEDS'on a PARIS board?
Answers - These mean different things at different times - The GUI Config on your PC/Mac is far more useful but when your Copter is not connected to the PARIS board the led can provide some limited information - see below - also please study our Tx animations above RED LED = power to 328 CPU is ON - should always be on The CPU board gets power from the 5v BUS ; or USB The Rx and 5v BUS gets power from a UBEC or a BEC on one of your ESCs - ; Rx/Tri-servo NOT powered via USBGREEN LED on the CPU board and the Hi-Output LED(either bright white or bright green) have several functions
GREEN LED is doing this :-
1) GREEN LEDS are on and stay on when the board is armed - are OFF and stay OFF when the board is DISARMED
2) GREEN LEDS blink rapidly 5 times Cal.Sticks.Gyro of the Gyro(MP+) then goes off - wait 10 secs
3) GREEN LEDS blink medium whilst computing a Cal.Sticks.Acc of the Acc(NK) then goes off - wait 10 secs
4) GREEN LEDS blinks during initial power up then goes OFF (the very FIRST time it will not because it's never been calibrated :) (see Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 procedure - below)
5) GREEN LEDS blink slowly if a problem is detected on start-up - code error (usually calibration NOT done)
6) GREEN LEDS blink slowly if Calibration Cal.1 Cal.2 and Cal.3 not completed (see below)
7) blinks once to indicate the CPU compute's a leveling correction
8) GREEN LEDS blinks rapidly 5 times for each stick-banging throw in ACC trimming "learning" mode
9) GREEN LEDS blinks slowly after loading Software in Arduino22 and before doing the Cal.GUI.Acc (see below)
10) GREEN LEDS blinks very rapidy for 30 secs when doing MAG calibration - stops by itself when finished - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs
11) GREEN LEDS comes one when disarmed if it detects the PARIS board is tilted >20° or so - goes off again if the board is leveled out
Question : What is the AUTO LEVEL LED for? - Answer: The reason it is called AUTO LEVEL LED is that it is used to verify the function of the 'learning' trimming of the stick-banging method for the ACC (also the reason why it faces backwards towards the pilot on takeoff - also faces the pilot when he lands to trim the ACC) - because this is done at the flying field with the copter in the outdoors/sun it has to be bright enough to see at 10 paces in sunlight - so land - disarm - it goes OFF - go to learning mode (see wiki above ACC trimming) then for each stick-banging throw you will see the 5 fast flashes of this LED. Arm again - goes on - fly
At the moment there is no provision for a dedicated/separate (third) modeLED in the 1.8 software - a good idea for future versions of the software - First verify your chosen switch (usually gear Switch) is working in the GUI - then mark your Tx switch (as you have selected for ACRO/LEVEL modes - see below in GUI) with red sticker, if you need it. I fly in ACRO mode and only switch to LEVEL mode for high hovers and high -> low hover decent Aerial photo flights or FPV
Answer - Pullups are resistors :) There are some inside your CPU controlled/activated by software - some on your PARIS as per this photo above.
- For 1.7 code and later, a PARIS fitted with 5v sensors (MP+ and NK originals) on the PARIS (or our old warthox board) the default software and hardware as you get them, are correct. You don't have to do anything in the code. All the data on the SDA and SCL I2C bus is running at 5v or slightly less voltage. Same goes for 1.8 software. The internal pullups inside the CPU are not as good as the hardware ones we provide because their value is too high at ~20K and they are essential "slow" resulting in inferior I2C data waveforms as seen on an oscilloscope - hence the reason we provide hardware pulls which are specifically 2k2 to be faster.
If you want to connect 3v3 sensors like BARO, ACC or MAG then active the code line here
Bearing in mind the above, when you attach 3.3v sensors, the CPU is still running 5v voltages in the SCL and SDA lines and you will blow you LV sensors even if you you use the 3.3v Vcc supply - unless you activate our pullups - You can also choose to activate our 2k2 hardware pullups (solder pads) on the PARIS; (or install the 1206 SMD pullups on our old warthox board on the vacant pads) . If you want to run mixed voltages - ie some devices at 5v (keep the motion plus MP+ running at 5v so it can reset in flight) and some devices at 3.3v then the LLC is used and the 5v devices are connected to the HV side and the 3.3v devices are connected to the LV side.
For example if you were only going to connect a Sirius® IMU to an older PARIS v3 (and specifically remove your MP+ - which we don't actually recommend removing - FYI the MP+ 600 gyro original is a very very good Gyro suited 100% to all multicopters with some onboard vibration - We would recommend to run both the MP+ and the Sirius together - especially if you already own to fantastic MP+) then, in the instance of Sirius alone , you would leave the code at default - close the solder pad to activate our hardware 2k2 pullups (bringing your SDA and SCL lines down below 3.3v) and connect Sirius Vcc to the PARIS 3.3v line on the IMU side.
On the PARIS v4 the DC bus is split into 2 sections - this is designed to prevent any noise crossing over from the blue section ESCs and servos into the green section below - however unless you attach a separate UBEC you will not be able to power up your board. If you are not concerned about noise - then solder closed the jumper - upper right side - and disconnect the red wire from all but one ESC (after calibration) and put heat shrink on those red wire pins)
For CarbonBird Motors - 775kv and 1220kv & HobbyWing® ESCs - fly with low timing (recommended) or medium timing.
I set Voltage Cut-off to Low -> Because I monitor LiPo via Telemetry "live" with Quanum
If you are using other motors -start at Low timing (item 6 in photo below) - if the motor/prop pulls smoothly without stuttering as you throttle up to full wide Open Throttle (WOT) - then leave it LOW timing - if it stutters on LOW timing change it to MED - try the full throttle range again up to WOT. Only use high if it continues to stutter (hesitate) on both LOW and MED - then only - try HIGH. We run all our factory demo machines on LOW - but the rule above applies and we still do full power checks - with PARIS bypassed - to see if all props - engines pull evenly at WOT - Take care doing full power checks - safety gear - and eye protection - two person test. Also a stuttering motor can be bad soldering on one wire - BEWARE - a single bad wire will blow your ESC! If you get a Stutter (ever) in a ground testy - cut power and investigate fully - NEVER push a speed controller which is trying to tell you something is not right - check your wiring and check all joints - sometimes they have been yanked under the heat shrink and are not right - !
Some Noobs want to use their wallet to buy their way to a full auto-pilot and have their first aircraft fully autonomous - so buying a Wookong M for their first copter - or get GPS so that GPS controls the aircraft for them - I understand a photographer just wants to shoot - but unfortunately putting a vehicle up in the sky is a big responsibility which rests on the shoulders of people - we call these people pilots - wether they are on the ground or upin the craft - so we STRONGLY advise you to get stick skills first
the real JOY of the multiwiicopter PARIS ACRO system is the amazing combination of smooth 100% control with full stability only PARIS offers - hard to explain - it's just amazing how the basic flight mode - called ACRO - handles really well - its far more satisfying than MikroKopter or DJI autopilot level modes - in these other highly automated platforms you feel like a cab passenger in New York - you can basically direct the Cab to go where you want but your in no noubt that your NOT the driver - Well with Multiwiicopter hardware/software it's the opposite - in ACRO mode (ACRO = stupid name - should be called AWESOME mode or Real Pilot HERO mode) you have absolute and complete control - yet its smooth predictable and stable. ALL the team pilots at MultiWiicopter.com fly in ACRO mode - almost all the time.
First off I fly Mode 2 - I am a real Helicopter pilot/instructor - so the other modes are like weird to me - sorry mode 1 guys - but as per a real Heli - right hand controls X&Y and left hand controls Z axis
I set on 2 posn switch above throttle (or the right stick on some Tx) this switch controls ACRO/LEVEL - down is ACRO - up is LEVEL on.
on 3 position stitch on right side - up off/mid MAGon/ down/MAG & BARO on
I fly 95% in ACRO - I use LEVEL mode only for
High hover parking while looking at something (my ground station LCD)
I use LEVEL mode for Take-off on FPV video goggles - FPV - when in sloping or patterned area with no obvious level horizon line - first 10m climb out - then switch back to ACRO
Crash recovery - if lost orientation - crash recovery panic is a) power up 70% b)hit switch above LEVEL on c)release right stick to centre it
I use MAG for level hover heading lock - MAG does not work when tilted more than 20° - erratic readings - don't go flying around at high bank angles in MAG locked mode. - Calibrating a MAG means press the button and then rotating the Quad XYZ 360° in 30 secs
I use BARO - for high hover parking at 100 feet up above my head (in calm wind - otherwise it will go downwind) - its not ultra sonic - use your eyes/brain/hands to hover the aircraft - you don't need an auto plit for this - get more stick time and get your skills developed.
GPS - For PARIS GPS coming mid July - I add a Position Hold PH switch on the far right front - and a Return to Home switch RTH on the far right top.
Oscillations during climb or duduring high power throttle moves.
These rapid oscillations occur in short compact airframes such as Stealth Series of Scarab when the P gains are set high - especially in LEVEL mode - and all you need do is back the LEVEL P value down by 0.5 and then set the Throttle PID Attenuation to 0.32 - see red circle below - this reduces the effective PIDS gains above 50% and has an ever increasing effect as the throttle is raised thru 75% to 100%
Information on assembling a kit can be gained by looking at the photos on the product page itself. If you stuck on an advanced kit
then first read the Quad Noobs guide
MultiCopters should hover at 50% throttle and fly for 10-15 mins.
Balance all props - vibration causes junk sensors data and gello in video - remove the SOURCE of the vibration by balancing
Use a quality prop balancer(Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer)
statically; then run them individually to check they are centred true and the tipshave the same path; any vibration will reduce the
effectiveness of the Wii gyro or anyother gyro.
Attach any IMU or sensors such as Sirius™, NAZA or WookM with vibration isolation gel - Board with sensors solder to directly
are just cheapo clones - commercial quality IMU use isolation vibration materials
Keep your PROPS OFF - not installed - until
you are fully conversant/understand in full the functions of your Tx in full including TRAV (end Points), the arm and disarm procedures
- realise that for a noob skiping or out-of-order set-up steps or moving sticks, or even static -
PROPS may start at anytime without warning. Never install props
prior to calibration of the ESC and testing the gyro orientation, and arm/disarm testing of the board - YOU are responsible - make
sure your actions and your Copter is safe - remove the prop -remove the risk.
Always maiden on default PIDs' - If the copter is not almost perfect on default PID's then DO NOT go straight to altering
the PID's! Most of the problems you will face as a noob will be caused by making wild assumptions or following myths from forums
- fly on default PIDs first - balance your props - make sure your ESC are calibrated and synchronized.
Dont be fooled by forum claims of kirby flashed ESCs - this software will melt your ESCs and give short flights - there is a lot
of bad info on forums
Safety in Australian Skies
Keep more than 30m from persons,choose an empty sports field for your first flights
Do not fly near pets, houses or cars
Never fly within 3nm of an airfield or above 400ft
Never install your props until after the Multicopter is fully tested and 100% correct without props. Engines can start
suddenly and without warning IF YOU FAIL to understand how they work or skip any steps.
Set your Tx/Rx binding to low throttle 1/4 position so that if the link is lost the copter will descend slowly.
Always keep your Copter in line of sight for one pilot ops - FPV is only legal in AU with a buddy on a buddybox -
2 person FPV is 100% legal using the buddybox system below 400'. See CASA Part 101 Regs
RC Flying is a privilege - please enjoy it. Don't show off and don't get over confident
Home movies are fine, but in Australia professional paid photography or videos from an RC aircraft requires
CASA Part 101 compliance, including exams and approved ops manuals and pilot competency tests by CASA official
which will cost several thousand up front.
Safety in USA Skies
USA multicopter Flyers be aware - FAA D.O.T USA published an AC 91-57 (Advisory Circular) on June 9 1981 to keep
flyers of models away from populated areas (people) and minimise hazard to persons and property on the ground -
the intention is conveyed by this AC
- It is titled Model aircraft operating Standards - Para 3. a) to e).
Clearly stated are the 400ft height limit and not closer than 3nm from an airport and the avoidance of populated
areas and parks.
Once used commercially a model in the USA becomes a U.A.S and pilots should read this document
regarding the use of multicopters for Comm Ops
We ship Australia wide by eParcel with signature
- and Worldwide by DHL/Fedex/Airmail Registered
- Please add the items to your cart and Estimate shipping - see
below. Orders ship in sequence - an Order placed on a friday night will
ship before an order placed on monday morning - Also please
see the SHIPPING PAGE for details - valuations etc
FREE SHIPPING OVER USD$300 - worldwide* ** Details
*FREE by DHL/Fedex/AUPosteParcel /Airmail Registered Post -
worldwide** for any single order totalling USD$300 or more* -
Only applies to INSTOCK ITEMS - that means Free packaging and handling
and free shipping by trusted Fedex/DHL ECONOMY/AIRMAIL
Registered (we choose/decide the best carrier for your country)
- Australian orders are shipped by eParcel signature on arrival.
Address given must be the address delivered to
as per your official PAYPAL address
Re-routing is NOT included in the FREE shipping offer
ie Fedex goes to your home (the address you gave us) and you then tell
them to re-route it to your work (they charge heavily for this) - so
Re-Routing is NOT COVERED - *Excludes
Government duties/taxes payable by the buyer on arrival in his/her
country - if you need any special declared value please
advice by email first to check if we can help or maybe not. Excludes
additional items ordered in other separate orders or items requested by
EMAIL before or after the event
** INCLUDES the following countries but excludes
remote provinces/islands/towns in these countries - Argentina,
Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Cook Islands, Czech
Republic, Denmark, Fiji, Finland, France, French Polynesia, Germany,
Gibraltar, Guernsey, Hong Kong, Hungary, Iceland, India, Indonesia, Ireland,
Italy, Japan, Jersey, Korea Republic of, Luxembourg, Macau, Malaysia, Malta,
Marshall Islands, Mexico, Nepal, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Oman,
Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Philippines The, Qatar, Russian Federation The,
Samoa, Singapore, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Thailand, United
Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States of America, Vietnam
Free offer Excludes places which are
remote/OFF the main DHL/Fedex routes where Fedex/DHL dont go on a daily basis
ie - are considered Remote Area Delivery. We will contact you if your Country
is marked as remote by our contractors - when we cross check your given address
to their database of NORMAL delivery addresses or we may only discover this
after we have been billed. If you place an order from a country which is not
listed above we will contact you with a Paypal correction option; if you do
not wish to pay the correction, for your Country, we will cancel your order
and refund your order via Paypal.